Early Life and Career Shift
Kyrgyz designer Tolgonai Abyshkaeva is promoting her cultural heritage on international runways through her designs, which blend traditional motifs with modern styles.
Tolgonai Abyshkaeva, founder and designer of the Bishkek-based fashion house “Bayra,” has been incorporating Kyrgyz traditional decorative art into modern clothing designs for 14 years.
After studying world economics at university, Abyshkaeva initially worked in the banking sector. She later explained that after getting married and having children, she was unable to return to banking.
Abyshkaeva described how she entered the fashion world almost by chance.
“As a child, I loved drawing. Even in primary school, I organized small fashion shows. I wanted to become a diplomat, but my father wasn’t supportive and encouraged me to marry instead. I studied world economics at university and, after graduation, started working at an international bank. Later, I got married and became a housewife. We have four children. While at home, I tried different activities. One day, I made a dress for my daughter, who was attending kindergarten. That dress became the most admired in the school. Everyone asked where I bought it, and I was deeply moved. At that moment, I decided to pursue tailoring. I attended tailoring courses and learned the craft,” she said.
She noted that she initially planned to open a workshop for wholesale production, but due to limited financial resources, she started by taking custom orders.
Abyshkaeva explained that she carefully researched the fashion world and realized she needed to move beyond tailoring to become a designer.
“I chose to pursue design. I prepared my first collection and participated in a local fashion week. After the event, my designs sold very well, and I started receiving invitations to other fashion weeks. Over time, I established my own brand,” she said.
She shared the story behind her brand’s name.
“The name of my brand comes from my grandmother, Gülbayram. In Turkish, ‘bayram’ means festival, and in Kyrgyz, it is pronounced ‘mayram.’ I shortened it to ‘Bayra’ for my brand. My grandmother had a traditional wall tapestry, and some of the motifs I use in my designs were inspired by that tapestry. These patterns symbolize growth and peace, which I make a central theme in my collections,” she said.
Building a Design Identity
“I thought it was wrong to copy others’ designs.”
Abyshkaeva, who did not receive formal design education, initially felt hesitant to present herself as a designer at fashion weeks. She said, “I saw design as creating and showcasing something unique. I thought it was wrong to produce designs similar to others’. But as I studied other designers’ work, I realized I also had a creative side.”
Her first garments were everyday and wedding dresses, while her first fashion week collection featured ethnic-style pieces.
She recalled the challenges of the early days.
“At that time, embroidery machines weren’t available, so I did all the work by hand. One day, my mother told me there was an embroidery machine at our village home. I brought it to the workshop and began applying the motifs to garments more quickly. We still use that machine in the workshop today,” she said.
Once she became recognized as a designer, Abyshkaeva sought to expand production but needed financial resources. “I needed to produce and sell higher-quality garments. I also began incorporating traditional embroidery into daily wear. At that time, such designs were almost non-existent,” she said.
Recognizing that she would pursue design as a lifelong career, she developed a comprehensive strategy.
“I decided to turn ethnic-style clothing into fashion. In 2013, I opened my first store in Bishkek’s then-largest shopping center. I had only one assistant. I had no team or prior experience, but I trusted myself,” she said.
After opening the store, her customer base grew rapidly, and she began receiving offers to open stores for her brand in other countries.
She said that a Bayra store was opened in China by her partners, while she herself opened a store in Almaty, Kazakhstan. In the United States and Russia, Bayra clothing is sold in stores opened by her partners.
International Expansion and Recognition
“I can say I brought innovations to Kyrgyz fashion.”
Over time, Abyshkaeva incorporated motifs from Uzbek, Kazakh, Tajik, and other Central Asian cultures into her designs. “I started using fabrics like Uzbek adras. When I researched the patterns on fabrics I liked and purchased, I learned that these motifs belonged to Tajik, Uzbek, and other Central Asian peoples. By boldly combining different fabrics in my designs, I can say I brought innovations to Kyrgyz fashion. My designs were well received by the public,” she stated.
Abyshkaeva highlighted that Bayra clothing is worn on all continents, including Africa, and that she also ships garments to Turkey.
She noted that she has presented her collections at several high-profile events. “Turkey’s First Lady, Emine Erdoğan, attended one of the events. She liked my collection and purchased garments,” she said.
Regarding her invitations to European fashion weeks, Abyshkaeva said, “I first received invitations through social media. When users widely shared photos and information about my designs, I received several invitations from Milan Fashion Week. Initially, I felt unprepared and declined, but later decided to participate. I presented modern-line dresses, vests, and other garments with embroidery. Before the runway show, models carefully examined the designs and said they especially wanted to wear my pieces. My collection also received wide attention on social media. Many people were curious about the meaning and origin of the motifs,” she said.
Challenges and Cultural Mission
“Spreading Kyrgyz traditional style worldwide is part of my mission.”
Abyshkaeva pointed out the challenges of entering the global fashion market as a Kyrgyz designer. “Technical problems can arise. If I buy a piece of equipment, there may not be an expert to operate it. Since fabric is not produced in Kyrgyzstan, sourcing it can be difficult. We need to go to Turkey, China, or Korea for fabric. When foreigners want to buy in bulk, shipping costs can be high. Garments may be urgently needed, but customs documents cannot always be prepared quickly,” she said.
She also noted the impact of her collections abroad.
“Through my collections, foreigners learn about Kyrgyzstan. At international events, people often ask, ‘Where are you from? Where is Kyrgyzstan? How did Kyrgyz people dress in the past?’ Some later visit our country. They come to our fashion house, buy our garments, and when they return home, they wear our clothes, take photos, post them on social media, and tag us,” she noted.
Abyshkaeva added that, as of last year, she has been organizing a fashion week in Kyrgyzstan, with the goal of promoting the country globally.