Karakul, or the Jinnah Cap, became an insignia of bravery, honour, and statesmanship across the nation-state, featuring the image of Muhammad Ali Jinnah during the Pakistan Movement, as it transformed the Karakul or Jinnah cap into a national headwear. The presence of the cap with the Quaid-e-Azam was not a coincidence. During the tumultuous decades of the 1930s and 1940s, the visual symbolism of this cap was deliberately employed by Jinnah as a symbol of constitutional power, strength, and new nationhood. The hat, when moved anywhere, be it in Lahore or Karachi, be it in political rallies or in constitutional talks, was a shortcut to the determination of a people that demanded self-determination.
After 1947, the legacy endured. One of the references that successive governors and senior politicians used was the cap not just as a fashion statement, but as a point of indication to political imagery, especially in official state affairs and diplomatic parties. The Jinnah Cap has been a silent, influential crest of leadership and the permanence of custom through decades of growing political life. More than a political symbol, it is a craft tradition based on Pashtun, Central Asian, and Afghan tailored culture that has been developed over generations in Peshawar. Sheikh Rafiq, an artisan, said, “My grandfather first had a shop here at Kissa Khwani Bazaar in Peshawar. He taught my father, and then I made it my profession and my passion 35 years ago. It is tiresome, tough, all-hand work.”
Materials and Craft Process
The raw material is the skin of the Karakul sheep. The source of these skins is mostly areas with established breeding cultures, especially Kashmir, where some pelts have curls and are valued for this headwear. It is not just leather; every skin is treated chemically, stretched, and cleaned, and it takes months before it reaches the workshop. Artisans such as Sheikh Rafiq explain how the process of cutting, treating, and drying the skin can initially take a minimum of one month, and it entails the careful use of traditional solutions that maintain the fur and prepare it to be shaped. This is followed by long curing, meticulous shaping, hand-stitching, and finishing, which together make a quality Jinnah cap.
Sheikh Rafiq also added, “The finished cap is subject to labour and material variability. Prices vary widely, ranging between PKR 2,000 and PKR 200,000, depending on colour, quality of the curl, rarity of the pelt, and custom work. I have made these karakuls for Pakistani as well as Indian governors, chief ministers, and army generals. I am well known in the Indian community.”
Cultural Meaning and Everyday Use
For most wearers today, the Jinnah cap has ceased to be an abstract representation and has become a living cultural artifact. It holds trace, blood, and a sense of belonging sewn into every stitch. The Karakul cap is also worn at weddings, Eid gatherings, jirgas, and official community occasions, where identity is not only expressed but confirmed. It is usually worn as a sign of respect for older generations who wore it in the past, for traditions that endured political turmoil, and for a culture in which status is measured by outward appearance. In doing so, the Karakul cap surpasses state symbolism and enters the personal sphere, becoming a link across generations, between countryside and urban life, and between traditions.
“We wear this cap as cultural heritage and a sign of prestige rather than fashion. My grandfather wore it, then my father, and now it is my turn. At one time, it was even presented as a gift to the groom during Pashtun weddings, and similar traditions also exist in Punjabi culture,” Azhar, a representative of Pashtun culture said.
Although the symbolism of the Jinnah cap is rooted in heritage, it has also entered international markets as a tangible Pakistani export. The export of headgear from Pakistan, which includes Karakul and other traditional caps, reaches North America, Europe, and other parts of the world. Shipments of headgear from Pakistan are especially notable in recent global trade with the United States, accounting for approximately 17 percent of total headgear exports, while the United Kingdom routes much of the remaining consignments to markets in the United Arab Emirates. These global sales indicate strong interest among Pakistani diaspora communities, cultural collectors, and heritage consumers abroad, bringing measurable value to cottage and artisan-based exports.
Continuity of Tradition
Since the 1940s, when political rallies were filled with Karakul caps, to the present day, when it is worn at cultural events, this cap has remained more than an accessory. It stands as a textile marker of continuity, pride, and identity, summing up the historical experience of Pakistan while sustaining a tradition of artisan craftsmanship.